THE GULLAH LADY! – Exploring Gullah Culture

Looking at the news lately, all news, leaves me feeling as though I’m living in a war zone. The United States is broken in so many ways. If you watch TV long enough, the question of should I really leave my home today doesn’t seem so far off. I’m on a mission to see more of my own country, which is how I found out about The Gullah Lady. I hope to gain experiences which paint a different image from what I see in the media.

I think part of looking at my own country means being open to new experiences and varying ways of living and thinking. This is easy to do in far flung places, but for some reason, so much harder in the United States. My objective in documenting myself seeing more of my country is to travel as a ‘stranger in a strange land.’ I want to see all walks and ways of life and reaffirm my beliefs that our diversity is what makes us a great nation. I truly believe that we are far more alike than we are different.

We took a baby moon road trip down south in which we stopped in various states and cities, one of which was Charleston, South Carolina. Our trip took place in February, which also happens to be Black History Month. As such, I searched for ways that we could learn more about the culture(s) of people of color in our nation, and thus, found The Gullah Lady.

A Gullah Afternoon!

I booked this excursion through AirBnB. It was my first time using the platform for booking an experience, and all went well. Our guide/leader was Sharon, otherwise known as The Gullah Lady. We met her in the Columbus Street park. As it was rainy and dreary weather, she re-located us to East Side Soul Food restaurant. I immediately liked Sharon from the get go because she was diligent, organized, and in constant communication…all things that put my anxiety while traveling at ease!

Sharon is an exceptional orator. Her profession, which I didn’t know existed, is literally that of a story teller, and she is one of the best. From the minute she began the day, it was impossible not to be captivated by her narrative skills and enveloped by her warmth. As an aspiring writer and someone who enjoys stories, I’m always in awe of people who are so gifted. The Gullah Lady began by telling us how she first came to know about Gullah culture, her pre-conceptions, and how she has been immersing herself in the culture for years now.

What is Gullah?

To start, Gullah is both the language spoken and way of calling the people who identify culturally as ‘Gullah.’ Gullah people live mostly on sea islands of southern Gulf states such as the Carolinas, some parts of Florida, and Georgia. The language and culture is a mix of American Southern and West African, and I’m sure some Caribbean as well. The crafts, arts, and food have influences from West Africa and the American South.

Typically, you might see Gullah families selling sweet grass baskets around Charleston. This is one of the things they are famous for. It’s one of the best souvenirs that travelers can purchase when in the city. Gullah food is also worth trying and consists of a lot of shrimp, fried fish, and greens. I had no idea that such a unique culture was a part of my country.

Gullah Music.

After learning about the beginnings of Gullah culture in the United States, it was soon music time. An area which I thrive in given the right conditions (wine, a dimly lit room, more wine) and do piss poorly in given the wrong conditions (sobriety by way of pregnancy). Sharon taught us a song popularly sung in Gullah churches. She instructed us on how to clap along, in a very unique style, to the song. The first clap or beat does not start in a spot of the song that is in the least bit intuitive. It’s really difficult to get used to that! If you don’t get the beat right from the jump, you sort of mess the whole thing up. The song was catchy and we still walk around our home singing it and clapping like lunatics. I even sing the song to my growing baby! He’ll sometimes kick when I sing it, although probably because my voice is bringing him physical pain, I’d imagine (sad face).

We practiced singing as a group, but this was tricky. There were only seven of us and I felt we had to NAIL IT for the first time. I didn’t want to over do my performance and make everyone else jealous. But I also didn’t want to leave anyone stranded with an underwhelming effort. After some deliberation, I thought I should over do my singing because, why not? Once that was over, I was semi-relieved.

I was feeling kind of shy that day (unimaginable, but possible). Then…Sharon pulled out a bag of Gullah instruments.

She laid them on the table and we all had to pick one. I GRABBED THE ACORN SQUASH with gusto. I loved the uniqueness of the instruments, and I was ready to play the shit out of my squash (by smacking it rhythmically). We were given the option of just playing the instruments to the beat, or playing AND signing.

Most of the group just wanted to play. However, my husband declared to everyone that we did not all come all the way to Charleston to sit on the sidelines and idly smack our squashes or clamp our cow bells, we needed to go balls to the wall. And so we ALL did and it was amazing, and we all laughed and definitely felt like one run through was enough. So did the few people in the restaurant listening to us, but we wound up running through it twice. I was flushed and shaky because I’m awkward…but I had SO much damn fun!

Quilting Gullah Blankets.

My favorite part was what came next…quilting! We learned about the art of Gullah quilting, specifically. The process is not difficult, but The Gullah Lady describes it as ‘tedious.’ I guess it can be, but I found it relaxing. Strips of different cloth are cut up, and you use a nail to push each piece through the burlap fabric and tie it into a bow. Eventually, the entire burlap base is covered and you have a quilt. While ours was random and colorful, there are plenty of artists who create actual scenes on their quilt. I can only imagine this is much more difficult.

Everyone who partakes in the excursion works on the same quilt and it makes the experience that much more meaningful.

As we worked, Sharon exposed us to the language of Gullah culture by telling a story in the language, seeing how much we could understand, and then re-telling it in Standard English. She explained that she has told this story for audiences of two, and audiences of hundreds.

I was touched that she also told us about her personal struggles. I enjoyed hearing about her overcoming being shy, unsure, and lacking confidence at some points in her life. In particular, she told a story of embracing her Black features when taking classes with a bunch of white women who all looked and acted different from herself. While her experience happened to be in this particular context, if one were to have an open mind, the lesson is relatable to anyone who has ever felt different or outcast.

Personally, I have always been an outcast for being different (in speech, action, and mind) in my life. It seems that only recently it has suddenly become cool and accepted to be oneself. Growing up, I thought and acted different from everyone around me. I was ostracized immensely by my peers, and even some of my own family and friends.

Sharon’s story of not fitting in has in so many ways really made me feel like I had found a kindred spirit — a person who understood me.

After really getting to know someone, it helps to solidify new friendship by sharing a meal. So, last in our experience, and importantly for foodies, we got to eat samples of Gullah food. Rice and red beans, okra soup, and fried fish made their way around. I finished my food before everyone else, naturally. The experience ended shortly thereafter. I left feeling so emotional, as I always do when spending time with people for a short while and then feeling so close to them in the end. The Gullah Lady provided our best and most authentic experience of Charleston. I highly recommend!

I came to The Gullah Lady wanting to learn more about her culture and people who are different from me. I wound up leaving feeling comforted that I’d learned from and about someone who is actually just the same as me. Sharon is a woman who embraced a new culture completely on her own. She took an unconventional career, and until recently has had many experiences and instances of feeling different. She’s truly a beacon for those of us who at times march to the beat of our own drums.

I’ve been walking this road –

A long time, a long time, a long time

I’ve been walking this road-

A long time, and I ain’t got weary yet.

– Gullah Spiritual