The Natural Pools.
I laid on my back in my swimsuit, next to my fiancée (now husband). The stars were scattered like gems across the black sky, and the air around us was invigorating and freezing. Every breath I exhaled floated as white vapor toward the direction of the plentiful stars. We were visiting a local “swimming pool” as the Icelanders call them. As an American, I’m more inclined to call them “thermal baths” because they are scolding hot.
“Us locals like to come take a swim with our children. Then we wash them, change them into pajamas — it’s a natural way to induce sleep. Visiting the baths before bedtime will be the best sleep you ever get. Trust me,” our tour guide declared earlier in the morning.
We did trust her, and that’s how we found ourselves at the Vesturbaejarlaug swimming pool. It’s the favorite one among locals. Many Reykjavik citizens have memories of splashing about as children and then they return later as adults with their own kids.
Most of Reykjavik believes that the baths, because they’re full of geothermal water, have healing properties. People will come in order to soothe all sorts of ailments. Many, I assume, visit just to lay back in the warm water and look up at the twinkling stars as we were doing.
I’m not one who is inclined to feel “connected to the natural world.” But even I felt a strong pull to Iceland’s natural environment while floating in those waters. This would be the first of many “swimming pools” we visited. The famous Blue Lagoon would, of course, be our final one.
Where I live, in New York City, I’m hardly ever aware of circumstances such as the trees blowing in the wind or the sky changing from light to dark. New Yorkers are simply too busy to notice such things. It’s probably because our vision is too obstructed by tall buildings and honking taxis.
This, of course, is not the case in Iceland.
One cannot help but be conscious of subtleties within nature when exploring Iceland. I enjoyed noticing the sudden dimness of the light in the sky while visiting. Since we visited in winter, the morning hours were frequently pitch black and deafeningly quiet. When we arrived in the city at 4 a.m. it was DARK, and there was not a ton of artificial light around. Most surprising was that, despite barely being able to see a few feet ahead in those early morning hours, people continued about their day as normal.
Small Daily Rituals.
Most homes in the United States have bathrooms that are tucked close to the center of the house, away from windows and sometimes even natural light. In our AirBnB in Reykjavik, there was a small, Hobbit-esque, window inside of the shower. Each night, it was rejuvenating to feel the scalding water hit my back and hair as the cool velvet air from the evening sky rushed in through the window concurrently.
Showering there felt therapeutic, and so it quickly became a twice daily ritual. Another habit we picked up quickly was walking around the city several times a day with no set agenda, just enjoying the natural sights. Despite being in the throes of winter, the air was cold, but not biting. The wind in my face during those walks caressed me so tenderly that it was easy to imagine that the gusts had hands and lips.
Perhaps this all sounds very poetic. You might imagine that you won’t pick up on these subtleties of nature. Don’t fret. You won’t be able to help noticing the extreme changes in weather that Iceland experiences daily. In one moment there is a blizzard, while in the next there is absolute sunshine. As such, Reykjavik has a saying: “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes. It will change.”
Iceland has a proud Viking history. Because of this, it’s not hard to imagine a Viking longboat rowing in from a faraway raid when taking a meditative walk by the water at the edge of Reykjavik as the fog rolls in.
At no time was this more apparent than watching the Northern Lights at the park. That evening, our guide warned us that, according to the radar, there was a minimal chance of seeing nature’s best performance. We had friends visiting the city at this time who went out three evenings to catch the lights and never saw them. Therefore, I tried to temper my expectations.
On the evening that we went, dozens of travelers stood in Thingvellir Park, seemingly all having been told the same news. As we stood waiting, I pretended we were Vikings gathered around for a mid-winter ceremony. Would you believe that nobody in the crowd spoke at all? Everyone stood mostly in silence, watching…waiting…hoping.
With Luck…The Northern Lights.
One guide announced, “You know, ancient people believe if you clap and cheer, it brings the lights out.” If ancient people clapped and cheered, then I wanted to as well. Again, I have a really idiosyncratic obsession with early people. As a crowd, we collectively clapped and cheered until a sliver of faint green light appeared. The crowd went wild and screamed louder as the light became stronger and spread across the sky. With one final gusto of enthusiasm, the lights became their strongest, starting on opposite ends on the patch of sky and meeting in the middle. I don’t think there was a single dry eye in the crowd.
Insert Joke About Chasing Waterfalls.
There’s no shortage of waterfalls in Iceland. Standing above them, in front of them, and even behind them will surely stun anyone into silence.
Standing in front of Skogafoss falls served as a reminder of how frail we are as humans when compared to natural elements.
Gullfoss Falls is another popular waterfall. It’s especially powerful and is a good reminder of the power of nature. We like to think nature is quite and unimposing. Here it roars and is forceful.
A Unique Breed.
Iceland’s nature isn’t just limited to its landscapes. It has a host of wildlife — none more famous than the Icelandic horse.
Despite their small stature, these centuries old creatures, which date back to the Viking age, are considered horses and not ponies. They are only found in Iceland and not shipped anywhere else. Talk about exclusive.
The horses sometimes run away, but they always return safely home, no matter how far they’ve ventured. I was not entirely surprised to learn that many Icelanders also ride bareback as well. Icelanders are truly fearless!
Nature Inspired Cuisine…
Icelandic nature, unsurprisingly due to its isolated geography, inspires many of the locally sourced meal options at restaurants. Menus are full of langoustines (my favorite) and other seafood. The fish chowder is a classic and a must-order. (And if you’re thinking it comes watered down in a ceramic bowl…think again.) The chowder is so thick that it’s served on a plate! It usually comes paired with the country’s famous brown bread and butter.
Saegreifinn definitely gets my vote, and the vote of many others, for best lobster chowder. It has HUGE chunks of meaty, buttery lobster in a velvety creamy broth. (And fresh bread and butter come with it!) It might have been one of the best soups in the world.
A Glimpse Into Glaciers.
Glacier hiking and ice climbing are great opportunities for anyone able to take advantage of them. Both offer a unique chance to really connect with some of the greatest natural wonders of Iceland. Check out my post on hiking Solheimajokull glacier!
Nature has long been a source of inspiration for much of Iceland’s creative masterpieces. The natural world heavily influenced some of the country’s most cherished and famous works. Sometimes, if you get really lucky, it might inspire the person you love to ask you to spend the rest of their life “adventuring” side by side together.
I can't believe you to to see the Northern Lights. People try so hard for that and often fail. My understanding is that the lights can take on different qualities, shapes, colors, and movement depending on the time of year, where you are, and the atmospheric conditions. No matter - you got to see SOMETHING. What a gift!
ReplyThis sounds and looks amazing! I'd love to be able to go!
ReplyThanks, Laci! Hopefully when this is all over!
Nature as culture - I like that a lot. Now that I\'ve seen your beautiful pictures and read your inspiring guide, I absolutely want to visit Iceland. And certainly take a dip in the hot springs ;-). Another thing I won\'t skip is the chowder - that sounds just so delicious!
ReplyI\'ve wanted to visit Iceland ever since my family moved to Europe the first time whe I was in elementary school. I still haven\'t been, and this post just makes me regret that fact even more. SUCH a gorgeous island nation!
ReplyWow! Iceland looks incredible. I would love to see the Northern Lights in person. Interesting to hear that they don\'t move across the sky. Honestly, that is what I expected them to do?! Oh well! I bet they are beautiful anyway!
ReplyWow! Love this post! Iceland has always been on my bucket list. Hope to visit there someday!
ReplyWow! Absolutely gorgeous photos!
ReplyWow, Iceland is so beautiful. Hope to make a trip there someday. xo Nipa
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