Reggae music blasts through the air. White, powdery sand warms up the bottom of your soles. A beach vendor asks if you need anything, “Red Stripe? Towel? Keychain? Ganja?” The waves of the ocean crash onto the shoreline steadily. A man with long, heavy, dreadlocks heats up an old grill that carries both the smell of grease and juicy aroma of jerk chicken. This is how I lost my Jamaica virginity.
Before actually visiting Jamaica, I had LONG been interested in taking a trip to the famed island paradise. I mainly had my sights on Jamaica because of its distinctive culture. Similar to Eastern Europe, many places in the Caribbean seem to blend together after a while. One beach looks like another, one rum punch tastes like another, one steely drum sounds like another. But, that’s so not the case with Jamaica.
Jamaica has a truly unique history and culture.
For instance, there are subgroups of Jamaicans such as Rastafarians and Maroons with their own history and cultural beliefs. The first is more well-known. However, the latter group members are descendants of those who evaded British rule in the 1700s by hiding in the mountains and using “guerrilla” tactics to outwit and avoid the British who plagued their island.
In fact, the Maroons were so good at resisting the British, that after two wars between the Maroons and Brits, treaties were signed which allowed the Maroons to be self-governing. This was long before slavery was abolished on the island. Maroons today are largely autonomous, lead by a council which is voted in by Maroon members. Although taxes are not collected from Maroons, the government provides their communities with education and infrastructure. Most Maroons, if not all, live in the mountains.
Jamaicans have their own language. The types of music extend way beyond reggae and include dancehall, rocksteady, dub, mento, and more. Jamaica’s dance halls are INFAMOUS and usually always packed. They are definitely a must-see for a Jamaica virgin. While many are aware of the “dutty whine” style of dancing, there are other styles such as “Jamaican quadrille,” which was performed during the days of slavery.
Jamaica is SO rich with culture and history and there is so much to see.
While I didn’t do as much as I had initially hoped, I feel it’s my responsibility not to reduce Jamaica to a stereotype of just tourist activities by including the aforementioned information. There is a wealth of history and culture to be uncovered on the island!
Yes, I Lost My Jamaica Virginity at an All-Inclusive.
When all-inclusive resorts are done right, they’re the best part of any trip and reasonably priced. I have stayed at resorts that really try to ingrain the local culture into their hotel brand with traditional food, language and dance classes, and ethical excursions. When all-inclusive resorts are not done right….they really suck.
I would say in all fairness that our experience at the Bahia Principe resort in Runaway Bay was average. That doesn’t mean it was bad, but it certainly wasn’t remarkable. We stayed somewhere that was budget-friendly for us at the time, and we got exactly what we paid for.
The views were stunning from every direction and certainly beat looking at the concrete walls of my job. The pool was pristine and there was always more than enough space surrounding it. There wasn’t a swimmable beach per se, but the water was certainly stunning to look at while walking around the resort.
The Entertainment was Amazing.
The entertainment staff was top-notch and there was always something fun and even comical happening on the property. I still have memories of an older woman taking her swim bottoms off during a “battle of the sexes” scavenger hunt game. The man and woman at bat had to return with a pair of swimsuit bottoms and whoever got to the host first, won. I especially loved that no one shamed the bottomless woman or tried to pull out their phones for a photo (her body was concealed in the pool water after all). She was elderly and thus met with applause and whistles for her bravery in nearly baring it all! Talk about losing your Jamaica virginity! We traveled during Carnival and so there were a lot of parties happening around the resort and even a jaw-dropping cirque style performance.
I have no complaints when it came to our room. It was clean yet bare bones. But, the bed was comfortable and the shower worked fine, so what more do you really need? The food and booze was a disappointment, but luckily we had some meals and drinks outside of the resort as well for an authentic taste of Jamaican food.
Having the opportunity to visit again, I would stay in Port Antonio, or a boutique hotel with really good restaurants in the area!
What Did I Eat?
Jerk Chicken.
There were a few distinctive dishes that I had only heard of from friends and students. That’s one of the many perks of working in a diverse school! The first was obviously jerk chicken. I was not expecting it to be so flavorful. Rather, I expected a swirling torrent of hot pain on my palate. I was pleasantly surprised at the juiciness and only slight spice. I for sure can’t handle the spice level of actual Jamaicans, and I have no shame in knowing that the jerk chicken was prepared with bechamel-colored people like me in mind. But, I was happy to enjoy a milder version all the same.
Callaloo.
I’ve sampled a number of “greens” in my life, but holy hell does callaloo take the prize home! Leave it to me to rave and sing the praises of callaloo as my favorite Jamaican dish. Some greens like broccoli rabe are delicious, but stringy enough to choke a person. Other greens like kale can sometimes be disappointingly dry. I’d liken callaloo to an elevated version of spinach. The spices are what make it so decadent, but also, the density of the greens packed together add to that. Just one bowl with maybe some chickpeas was more than filling for me.
Curry Goat.
Unpopular opinion: I was VERY skeptical about trying curry goat. You all have seen how cute goats are. As a general rule, I can’t typically eat anything with a personality. Although, I do really love lamb. I hoped goat would taste similar to that. However, as much as I hoped for a familiar taste, I had it in my head that goat would taste like rotten meat. I think it’s because whenever you see goats, there’s always so much poop around. It would be like eating a goose. All you think about is miles of poop. Am I right?
Surprisingly to me, curry goat bathed in a buttery, rich, brown sauce was a huge win. The sauce was creamy and salty as hell which is my preferred taste. I was floored that the meat itself is so tender, almost like the consistency of a short rib. Why aren’t we all eating more goat?!
Pigeon Peas and Rice.
Last, I really enjoyed the starchiness of pigeon peas and rice. It’s a great tasting and filling side dish and if you cooked it at home, you can make it as fancy or as simple as you’d like. Ours was prepared with coconut milk which gave it a distinct Caribbean flair that I so appreciated.
Looking for more cuisine to try when visiting Jamaica? Click here!
What Did I Do?
Swimming in the Cool Blue Hole:
This was absolutely one of the highlights of our trip and a must for Jamaica virgins! I’m not a nature person typically. BUT, the ‘Cool Blue Hole’ has some of the most stunning views and natural splendor of anywhere that I’ve been in the world. The area has crystal clear water for swimming, waterfalls to marvel at, and of course, ‘blue hole lagoons.’ This place is definitely worth exploring for an entire day. This is a location that is enjoyed by both travelers and locals. Side note: some of the opportunities for adventure here are not for the faint of heart. Look how high the jump is in the photo!
The ‘Cool Blue Hole’ is an incredible experience if you happen to be an adventurous person. We were able to hike up beside waterfalls, rappel down (very slippery) rocks with cascading water, jump from very high places, and swing into the blue hole lagoon itself by a rope. I LOVED the last part even though I was beyond terrified the first time that I went. I wasn’t much for the jumping and rappelling, but my husband is a daredevil, so he did both and loved them.
River Boat Tour:
Jamaicans have long been using river boats an an ingenious way to transport bananas and other produce downriver. However, when (controversial) actor Errol Flynn visited the island decades ago, he knew that the warm locals and natural beauty would soon cause Americans to flock to Jamaica for vacation once the “secret was out.” After observing Jamaicans use the boats for passing produce, he couldn’t help but notice that they could also be used for tourist cruises.
If you’re not privy to the activity, an incredibly fit Jamaican, usually a man, will paddle groups of two down a river on a homespun, yet ingeniously crafted wooden river boat. The feat is very physically demanding. Our own guide had to pull the boat through rough currents and navigate small waterways using only a stick (much like a gondolier in Venice). You guide might tell you about Jamaican culture, charm you with some flowers on the riverbank, or even tell you about his personal home life. Our guide did all three and was a truly delightful guy. Be sure to tip your guide at the end of the experience, these men work HARD!
We chose a smaller, lesser-known river boating tour company, so the river wasn’t too busy. As we cruised serenely along the water, it was fascinating to take in the scenes of local life. There were children playing on the riverbank and we even got a glimpse into the yards and homes of some people who live along the waterway. After our cruise, we were treated to a feast of jerk chicken, callaloo, and pigeon peas with rice.
Nine Mile & Bob Marley Museum:
Since my earliest memory, I recall Bob Marley being played softly in our home. The tempo and his soothing voice always made me feel calm and I especially recall his music being a favorite of my parents in the summer when the sun was shining, Dad was barbecuing, and Mom crafted homemade salads to serve on the side.
Growing up on an island (Long Island), Bob Marley was a classic staple of most of my classmates’ upbringing, even though he was actually before our time. All of this is to say that his music reminds me of my community and my family. It reminds of me love, and joy, and most of all — relaxation and simpler times.
Being such an important part of my life, I felt it a happy obligation to visit Bob Marley’s childhood home and final resting place as part of losing my Jamaica virginity. The experience was as magical as I hoped, and probably more so. For a full recap on the experience click here. It was special enough that it needed its own post!
Would I Return After Losing My Jamaica Virginity?
Absolutely. I would definitely return to see much more of the authentic history and culture of Jamaica. It would be incredible to visit a dance hall, to eat outside of our resort more, and even maybe to visit with the Maroons because I’m especially interested in their culture and past.
A lot of international celebrities of the past spent time in Jamaica, and their luxurious former homes have now been made into luxe resorts. Writer Ian Fleming and actor Errol Flynn are among the most notable. Whenever I can save up enough money, I’d love to stay at one of the gorgeous homes-turned-resort.
A Note on Poverty.
The people in Jamaica are like people anywhere, that is to say, they are individuals. There are some things that travelers should keep in mind when visiting countries that are socio-economically disadvantaged. People who are facing abject poverty will do just about anything to survive and provide for their families. When facing the same situations, we all would be driven to act out of varying degrees of desperation. We might act in a way that seems bold to some, but ensures food on our table by doing so, and is in no way ‘violent.’
I did find that some locals were quite aggressive in trying to get us as tourists to buy their trinkets and merchandise. At our resort, a timeshare employee followed us around the property and berated us for not buying a timeshare from her. She asked us how she would be able to get a promotion if we didn’t help her. The idea that we should invest in a timeshare of all things, for the sake of helping a stranger was entirely rational in her mind.
When leaving the river boat property, one of the river boat guides chased down our van and held us up at the exit gate because two of the people in our group did not leave a large enough tip in his opinion. I have never experienced something like this, especially at an attraction geared for tourists. I completely understand his frustration, but to be held up and blocked from leaving the area, to the point that even our driver was afraid to argue, was a bit unnerving. Maybe it was obvious that we hadn’t lost our Jamaica virginity.
Another Example.
At our resort, as we ate at the outdoor buffet one morning, two local children climbed over the fence from the beach and asked us to give them food. Naturally, I know that by giving them food, this creates an issue for the resort as the kids might spread the word that tourists will give locals free food from the buffet. This could drive down business as tourists might not want to be put in the position of sneaking food to locals on their vacation.
However, all I saw were two hungry children, so I rose to make them a plate. Before I got a few feet from our table, a security guard chased them away and down the beach. Again, a friendly reminder that those suffering through poverty will not put on your version of ‘best behavior’ simply because you rolled into town for the weekend. Life goes on as usual.
Jamaica is rich in culture, history, and pristine nature, but travelers will bear witness to the poverty and conditions that poverty creates. Since I am no longer a Jamaica virgin, I think that next time I visit the island, I will try to travel in a more ethical manner. I will frequent restaurants, small businesses, and lodgings that better benefit local people.
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