Most people do not flock to central America for the cities. However, as far as capital cities go in this part of the world – Panama City in the country of Panama is actually my favorite that I’ve visited so far. But when visiting Panama, you didn’t come all the way just to see the city, did you? No, when you see Panama on your social media feed you see photos of clear water, starfish, hammocks, and crudely built beach huts for sleeping. Basically, what you’re seeing is island life in Panama. The two most popular island escapes are Bocas Del Toro and The Guna Yala (San Blas) islands. You’ve heard of the WWE, well, welcome to the WWT (Wandering Why Traveler) Smackdown Series. This or that?
Both island adventures belong to the heavyweight category – that is to say are incredibly popular among travelers. Thinking of doing both? Trying to choose only one? Last week I brought you my thoughts on Bocas del Toro. This week I bring on its opponent the Guna Yala (San Blas) islands!
What are the Guna Yala islands?
The Guna Yala islands are the indigenous name for what many tourists call the “San Blas islands.” Guna Yala is also the name of the colorfully clad indigenous people who independently own and operate the islands.
The Guna Yala islands are a series of 300 land masses. The Guna Yala people inhabit approximately 50 of them. These people still live very much as their ancestors did. They have a special respect for nature, and use natural resources to build simple huts. Their connection to nature is evident when considering how absolutely pristine the Guna Yala keep their islands and the surrounding water. The language spoken among them is the indigenous Guna language, but many children are now learning Spanish just as well. A few may even know enough English to converse with tourists.
Perhaps most interesting is that among the Guna Yala a “third gender,” or as we in the states would call “trans gender,” is not only tolerated, but accepted. The occurrence of trans individuals has roots in mythology, so it has been accepted since the dawn of their culture. If and when a child shows gender fluidity, or a departure to an opposite gender, they will not be scorned or deterred by society. Gender fluidity is not seen as ‘wrong’ among the Guna Yala.
What’s To Love:
The Water.
Without a shred of a doubt, the water of the Guna Yala islands are the most pristine and perfect that you will ever see. This is because the native people have only recently opened their islands up for tourism. They take great precautions to ensure that their islands and the water around them are respected and given the utmost care. The water is as clear as a mirror, and you can see all the way to the bottom.
It sounds crazy, but you can spend a good chunk of time just marveling at how undefiled the water is. I know we certainly did our fair share of gawking. While many Google photos of tropical destinations are heavily photoshopped, most images of the Guna Yala islands are not because there is no reason to alter them in any way. The water surrounding these islands is the most beautiful natural sight that I have seen in my many years traveling the globe. Whatever length that you have to go to in order to visit these islands is worth it.
Minimalism.
There are no crowded supermarkets or trendy shops, nor rowdy cantinas on these islands. For many, the best part of these islands is that there is nothing to do, and nothing to worry about! Each day in the Guna Yala islands is filled with doing, well, whatever you want. Laying in the sun, catching up on a good book, snorkeling in the most clear waters that you will ever see, and playing cards are all that you will likely be doing during your visit.
Opportunity for Fresh Food.
I’ve had several friends visit the Guna Yala islands who had the opportunity to catch their own lobster and fish by using nets or even snorkeling! Afterwards their guides or locals would grill the seafood, which was served along with a myriad of side dishes. From their accounts, and the photos I saw – the experience looked delectable. I can’t think of a more awesome way of locally sourced eating then diving for a lobster off of the sea floor, and helping to prepare it with the local Guna Yala people!
Visiting the Guna Yala Village.
Our particular tour allowed for the opportunity to visit one of the main islands where Guna Yala people live year round. It was a quick visit, but a powerful one. Having the opportunity to see this indigenous group of people can easily turn any visitor to the islands into a fierce advocate. Seeing their way of life was special, and knowing that it has been this way for centuries was humbling.
What’s Not to Love.
Length for One Day.
Can you do the Guna Yala islands in one day if you’re short on time? Absolutely, and this is exactly what I and my best friend, Amanda, did. It’s a bit of a hike. There’s a long 4×4 jeep drive to the boat, and then you take the boat to the islands. But it’s definitely do-able. We got no sleep the night before our trip, so the jeep ride there and back was absolutely miserable for us. Keep in mind – all tours tend to leave around four or five in the morning to give you the most of the day.
We were so exhausted by the end of our day that we collapsed into bed and nearly missed our flight the next morning! Even though you are “just relaxing” the combination of sun, swimming, hopping on and off of the boats, and if you do volleyball or any sports, can be exhausting. The 4×4 ride is not comfortable, especially when you are on top of one another and sandy, wet, and sweaty.
Again…minimalist.
It could be incredible to walk out of your thatched hut in the morning and already be on the beach, watching the sun rise out of the water. No hustle and noise in the background, just experiencing life as it was hundreds of years ago. A large part of me really wishes that we stayed overnight, but our schedule just didn’t permit it. However, I’d like to throw a contrary image your way. This is particular to the island that we were at, but I can imagine that our island was not unique, from what I’ve researched on the internet.
The floor of your hut is entirely made of sand – which could be cool, but could also be gross.
The bathrooms are very bare bones, we’re talking dirty porta-potties. So, you’re either peeing in those or the water. Unless you’re using the rickety showers, if they’re available. And we all know that the only way to get the pee off of yourself is a good shower. All I imagine is that each night, you’re crawling into bed still wet from the island. Sand is caked all over your body and there’s dried pee on your thighs. You’re sweating with no AC on a bed, cuddled up with a blanket that God only knows how many people used before you. I think I have way too many sensory issues to enjoy this type of roughing it – at least for more than one night. Sand in a bed? Yuck.
An example of some more rustic lodging on the Guna Yala islands
An inside view of the more rustic huts offered for accommodation
I dont want to be misleading. There are some more “luxe” options, but in my experience and research not many look like this
The bathrooms are…interesting. However, if you have survived a night out in the Lower East Side of NYC, you can survive a day here.
There’s Not a Lot to Do.
If you’re a regular reader of my blog, you know that I’d rather die than spend a day relaxing. I love my fast travel and I’m always on the “go-go-go.” My best friend, Amanda, who appears on my blog a lot, is very much the same way. I’ll be honest, if you are someone who hates taking it slow, you might find yourself bored and stir crazy on the islands. If you don’t bring a book, sporting equipment, or games – you’ll very much be sitting on the sand and staring off into the distance for a good part of the day.
It’s great fun to stare at the impeccable nature around you, but for monkey minds of the 21st century – the novelty fades after the first two hours or so. Beyond snorkeling and boating from island to island every few hours, we spent most of our day laying in the water and checking the time. So, for people who like to always be “doing something” consider this when booking your trip.
The Climb Into the Boat.
This is going to sound super petty, but I don’t care because it’s my blog! The boat which drove us around looks very close to the water, but it’s not at all. Imagine trying to climb on a tall horse with no saddle and no steps to help. This is exactly what climbing into this boat felt like between islands.
Guests were generally good-natured on this trip, but there was always anxiety and panic when it came time to board the boat.
Spouses were trying to help each other, then yelling when their efforts would fail. The boat would rock back and forth as people tried to climb on. If you were one of the last to board, as we seemed to be every time, the boat always got a decent look at your vagina as you wrapped one leg around a pole while trying to swing the other one on board.
Every single time, after getting one foot on board, I flew backward off the boat and landed underwater – inadvertently waterboarding myself. One time my foot made it into the boat, but my other foot didn’t. I just couldn’t maneuver myself to propel the other half of my body on board. I felt like since I was halfway there, I didn’t want to remove the foot that had made it into the boat. So I just hopped on my free foot awkwardly in the water, one extending onto the boat at hips length, and the other in the water.
The boat moved away from me when someone on the opposite side climbed on. I basically did a split as the boat sailed away with my leg on it while people looked at me and laughed. It was terrible. All I’m saying is, with the money these companies charge – a ladder can’t possibly be an unreasonable request.
The Food is Hit or Miss.
Depending on which company you travel with the food is either outstanding, or an opportunity to feel like you’re starring in an episode of Survivor. During the entire day, we were served a small amount of rice with shredded chicken. And a really sad looking salad. Our guide was quick to put the food away immediately after everyone was served, so we didn’t get a chance for seconds. If I had to stay overnight, I think I would drown myself. I thought I’d be diving for lobster, and eating mounds of seafood considering we were on an island. That being said:
- Nearly every company allows you to stop at the supermarket before bringing you to the boat that takes you to the islands. We didn’t understand why our fellow guests were stocking up on goods, as we thought we would be fed well. I highly suggest picking up snacks and drinks if you know that you get peckish.
- You REALLY have to do your research before traveling to these islands. Especially if you are going overnight, and especially if you are particular about food and tend to get hangry very easily!
Courtesy: Unsplash
Top Memories:
The views.
Out of all of the tropical destinations that I have been to in my life, the Guna Yala islands have the best views. The views of the water and islands make every “perfect” calendar photo of an island look like a war zone in comparison. When we think of “unspoiled nature” our mind tends to envision mountains. I was happy to see what “unspoiled nature” meant in terms of beaches and islands. It was so refreshing to visit a beach with no waste, no litter, and unspoiled water. Remembering the views of these islands helps me get through many a tough time. It’s always a memory that life can be truly beautiful sometimes.
Falling Off the Boat.
It was embarrassing and annoying to continuously fall off of the stupid boat. However…I always laugh when people fall, whether it’s me, someone I know, or a stranger. I’m not sure if it’s because I get nervous, or because it’s genuinely funny. I didn’t take it personally when people laughed at me, I would have done the same! Sometimes I still laugh when I think about how I did a split in front of everyone on accident. Or how I slipped off the pole that I was gripping and nearly drowned. I’m sure from everyone’s perspective it was hysterical, because years later, it’s pretty funny to me too.
Sand bar.
The last stop of our day was to an incredible sand bar. The water in some spots didn’t even reach our waists, and I’m amazed how far the bar seemed to stretch on for! This broke up the monotony of sitting on the island for sure. Everyone had a good time taking photos, or experimenting with how high or low the water would go in certain areas. And the music was blasting where it had been pretty silent in the beginning of the day.
What do you think? Would you want to visit the Guna Yala islands? Don’t forget to check out the post about Bocas del Toro as well to see how it compares!
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