Cuisine anywhere in the world was ruined for me the moment the food in Seville touched my lips. Eating in Seville is like making out with the greatest lover you’ll ever have. Pretty much everything in comparison is OK, maybe even great, but it will never be Sevillano.
Traditional Spanish foods have been simmered and mixed up with both Moorish and Gitano influences to create decadent flavors that are enough of a religious experience to make a grown man cry.
Here are some of my favorite foods and where to find them. This is by no means an exhaustive list, but it’s a great resource to get you started.
La Goleta for the Vino Naranja:
Yearssssss ago, the Moors more or less (the damn pun, I’m so sorry) took over the south of Spain, and obviously with that, they brought their culture. Oranges were a huge part of their culinary arsenal, and in particular, orange blossom. With that in mind, this was the inspiration for Seville’s famed, ‘vino naranja’ or in translation, ‘orange wine’ (but don’t call it that, just say vino naranja.) It’s a sweet, but strong wine that’s as rich in smell as it is in taste.
La Goleta is said to be the original procurer of vino naranja. Beyond that claim to fame, it’s worth visiting just for the aesthetics and vibe alone. You’ll feel as though you’ve tumbled back in time and found the Spain of the early 20th century.
An animal head hangs on the wall, a sign commands “no cantar” due to the gypsies that used to try and sing for money in the space, and you can take a leak in the world’s smallest restroom. Some bottles, probably from the 1940’s, sit on a creaky, wooden shelf behind the bar where you can also find a sign advertising what’s on tap for food. A strand of garlic hangs somewhere above the bar because…why not?
Speaking of tiny, this place is so small that there’s nowhere to sit! Stand at the bar, order a plate of cheese and bread, and sip your wine while admiring the creative touches that have withstood the test of time.
Arte Y Sabor for the Moroccan Food.
There are many people who use Seville as a launching point for a trip to Morocco, either for the day or for weeks. Andalusia, particularly Seville, is indeed very close to Morocco, so it’s no surprise that the cuisine of the northeastern African country makes its way into some restaurants.
Visit Arte Y Sabor for both Spanish and Morroccan delicacies — especially popular here is the tagine! This place is also beloved by vegans for their surprisingly remarkable meatless dishes.
Taberna Alvaro Peregil for the Salmorejo.
Oh man. Looking for something comforting, but not hot as it’s usually pretty sweltering in Seville? Visit Taberna Peregil and order the salmorejo. It’s a very thick and really creamy version of gazpacho (cold tomato soup) topped with olive oil, and if you’re lucky, crushed bread crumbs. It’s filling enough, but don’t be shy about ordering any of their other amazing tapas and some vino naranjo to wash it down!
Bar El Comercio for the Churros.
So…fuck breakfast anywhere else in the city. Go here every single morning instead. This place serves truly famous deep fried churros, and no one will even look at you twice for ordering them as soon as the doors of this place open. The churros are locally sourced in that you can watch a handsome man who is glistening with sweat, deep fry them from behind a glass panel before they arrive at your table.
Many people like to dunk their churros into melted chocolate, and El Comercio is certainly a place to do just that. However, just a tip that we learned from a local: dunk your churro into coffee or a latte and dredge it through table sugar. It’s an elevated yet still delicious take on the classic. Speaking of coffee, this is a fantastic place for it!
El Patio San Eloy for the Cheese, Meat, and Wine.
I’ve eaten a lot of charcuterie and cheese plates. I’ve never had cheese, meat, and wine that was better than at this place. Beyond that, it’s one of my favorite restaurants in the entire world, if not, the top one altogether. Whenever I see photos of myself here, I immediately begin crying. The simplest moments in Europe are often the best ones.
After a long day of sightseeing, you should sit on the stacked, blue, ceramic steps INSIDE of this place and enjoy the best cheese you’ll ever have alongside a tiny glass of vino.
Stare at the casks and barrels of wine, the hard working older man behind the bar, and the other joy-filled patrons lounging and laughing as they do exactly what you’re doing. I really think that heaven probably looks similar if not identical to this place.
El Baratillo for Pork Cheeks and Ox Tail.
These are the specialty meats of Seville, folks! And you might as well get them in a place that specializes in cooking them! The pork cheeks are SUPER tender and basically fall apart as soon as you stick your fork into them.
They’re really succulent and I’d almost aliken them to short rib. I always imagined that ox tail was like…a thin piece of hairy rope, so I was all, “PEOPLE EAT THAT?!” However, oxtail is actually thick and ‘knobby’ like a pork knuckle or giant chicken wing, and, just like pork cheeks, it tastes similar to short rib. Give it a whirl!
El Riconcillo for the Tortilla.
Tortilla in Spain is not a flat, flour based, disc that you make tacos with — although those are delicious too. In Spain, tortilla is…well…best followed by a nap. Picture a cake made with potatoes, eggs, and cheese. It’s heavy, it’s decadent, and it’s surprisingly not yet been appropriated by Paula Deen.
Try one here in a multitude of flavors from jamon to asparagus to chorizo and much more. El Rinconcillo used to be a best kept secret of Seville, but in recent years, every Tomas’, Dick, and Harry — including myself — have found out about this exceptional joint. A must visit for a true food lover.
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